Sunday, September 28, 2008

Ballet Costume from 1954

This is me in 1954, 7 years old, in my recital ballet costume. My dance teacher was Adelaide Molter in Severna Park, Maryland.

I thought you'd enjoy seeing this costume with the tutu portion made of tulle, which is a softer form of the nylon netting that we have today. Because it doesn't have the stiffness of nylon net it is much fuller in volume.

The bodice is a stiff form of velvet, though I don't know what it is called. Perhaps a reader will comment and let us know?

The plastic headband is covered with starched cotton roses.

And, this is still before pink tights became the standard - hence the white socks with black leather ballet slippers.

Tutu for ballet recital; photo credit J. Kramer.

If you need help with sewing techniques for dolls and costumes I recommend consulting my book.

Masks for Halloween Costumes

Masks can be Halloween costumes in themselves and for the child that does not want to wear a costume a mask might be fun!

Here is an example of a feathered mask that is made like a fancy pair of glasses.

Halloween mask

To make a similar mask use a pair of sunglasses and remove the lens.

With craft glue attach fake gems around the eyeglass frame and glue on your choice of decorations.

The wearer will be able to see well with the large openings the eyeglass frames provide, yet with decorations attached their identity can take on many characters.

Have fun with making safe Halloween masks this year!

Article by Susan Kramer; photo credit M. Ryckman

If you need help with sewing techniques for dolls and costumes I recommend consulting my book.

Friday, September 26, 2008

Costume of Sinterklaas in The Netherlands

I'm an American living with my Dutch husband in a village by the North Sea in North Holland, The Netherlands. I thought your family might enjoy seeing how Sinterklaas (our Santa Claus) is costumed here.

Sinterklaas; photo credit Susan Kramer

In the photo you'll see Sinterklaas has the long white beard like the American Santa Claus and the German St. Nicholas. He wears a long white gown with lace around the hem, girdled by a white cord at the waist and white gloves.

Over the gown is a red velvet cape trimmed in gold braid. And upon his head is a hat resembling a bishop's.

By the way, Sinterklaas or St. Nicholas Day is celebrated December 6th each year. The eve before, children put out a shoe to be filled with goodies while they're sleeping.

Alternately, the shoes are filled with candy on the eve of the 5th and "Sinterklass" arrives at the door either on the eve or on the 6th bearing an armful of gifts.

Later in December, the first and second day of Christmas are celebrated December 25th and 26th. After the religious ceremonies, both days are usually spent in meals with family - one day people coming to visit and the other day going to family or friends.

The Christmas tree is set up, lit and decorated after December 6th to tie it in with Christmas, rather than Sinterklaas festivities.

If you need help with sewing techniques for dolls and costumes I recommend consulting my book.

Article and photograph copyright Susan Kramer

Thursday, September 25, 2008

Fabric Dolls from Jamaica in the 1940s

The 2 dolls in the photos were made in Jamaica in the early 1940s.

They are cotton fabric, 12 inches (30cm) long and hand sewn. The eyes are embroidered in a light green sewing thread – not floss. And to make the eyes come forward a running stitch was used around each eye and pulled a bit to make the eyeball protrude outwardly.

Their bodies are packed tightly with kapok.

Article and photo credits by Susan Kramer
dolls from Jamaica photographed by Susan Kramer

Degas Sculpture - The Little Dancer Aged Fourteen

First exhibited in 1881 in wax, costumed in a gauze tutu with a silk bodice, fabric slippers and real hair wig, “The Little Dancer Aged Fourteen,” by Edgar Degas (1834 – 1917) is in the style of Impressionism.

Degas Sculpture - The Little Dancer Aged Fourteen (1880-1881); photo credit Susan Kramer, September 2001

The artist’s model was Marie von Goethem, a student of the Ballet de l'Opera, Paris, France.

After Degas’ death, the original wax sculpture was made into more than thirty plaster and bronze casts; now displayed in museums around the world.

“The Little Dancer Aged Fourteen” (1880-1881) on display at the Musée D’Orsay, Paris, France, September 2001; photo credit Susan Kramer

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Sewing Directions for 18 Inch Dress Pattern

You’ll need about one half yard (one half meter) of material for dress and a small swatch for bib collar. I use 6 strand embroidery floss in a contrasting color for tassel on bib collar.
dress for 18 inch doll; photo credit Susan Kramer
For the skirt cut a rectangular piece of material 30 inches (75cm) by 10 inches (25cm) – this gives you enough to make an ankle length dress, if desired. Cut a 10 inch long and 1.5 inch wide strip on the bias of dress material to finish neckline. For bib collar, which is just in front, cut one piece in dress material and one piece in a contrasting plain fabric – in the photos I’ve used white.

Construction directions

Bodice

Right sides of bib collar facing, sew along two outer edges to center point and turn right side out. Press flat. Pin collar to dress front and baste along front shoulder and neckline edges.
collar detail on dress for 18 inch doll; photo credit Susan Kramer
With right sides of back and front bodice facing, sew together at shoulders. Press seam open. Using the bias strip sew one long edge to right side to neckline. Clip curves. Fold bias strip to inside of neckline, turning in once and blind stitch to wrong side of neckline. Be careful not to catch collar in your hand sewing. To finish back seam of bodice, turn in twice on each center edge and hand or machine stitch to make a one quarter inch hem. Overlap waist edge one quarter inch and tack together.

Sleeves

Roll in lower edge and hem by hand or machine. (I sew sleeve and skirt hems by hand.) Gather along dotted line of sleeve, (I use quilting thread for strength) just loose enough to slide over doll’s hand. On the Raggedy Ann in this photo the gather is 4.5 inches across. Along armpit edge gather sleeve with basting stitch just inside the one quarter inch line to fit armhole and with right side of sleeve facing right side of front and back bodice (which are just joined at shoulders and now lay out flat) stitch together with one quarter inch seam. Clip curve. Repeat for other sleeve. With right sides of sleeves and bodice facing, sew together sides of bodice and underside of sleeves at the same time. Repeat on other side.

Skirt

Sew short edge together to form back seam. Press open or to one side. Gather along waist edge just inside one quarter inch seam to fit bodice waist. With right sides of skirt and bodice facing, and skirt seam matched to overlapped back bodice seam, baste bodice to skirt together by hand and turn right side out. Fold skirt seam and bodice seam up toward bodice on inside. On outside topstitch along waist line on bodice all the way around. Try dress on doll and turn up lower edge twice to make desired length of skirt. Press and blind stitch hem.

Finishing

Copy how I folded bib collar and pin in place temporarily. With large embroidery needle thread a 12” (30cm) length of floss and at center of bib collar to catch fold and working from right side take one stitch through and back out to front and tie in a square knot. (Remember that knot from Brownies? Right over left and under; left over right and under.) I think the square knot makes a nice finish. Clip tassel to desired length. For back closure sew on a sticky dot at neck edge to keep one side of back overlapped.

Now decorate the dress if you wish.

A one quarter inch cross grain ribbon topstitched to waistline just on front of bodice and long enough to tie in back. Variation – make the bodice a contrasting plain fabric to the sleeves and skirt.

Article and Photographs © Susan Kramer

If you need help with sewing techniques for doll costumes I recommend consulting my book.

Pattern Pieces for 18 Inch Doll Dresses

Here is a page of pattern pieces to make a dress in long or short length for an 18 inch fabric or vinyl doll, such as Gotz, or American Girl, or Corolle. Be sure to measure your doll's waist and chest to make sure the pattern will fit with enough extra for movement.

For the skirt cut a piece of fabric 30 inches (75cm) wide by 10 inches (25cm) long.

You may use the pattern for personal use but not commercially.

If you need help with sewing techniques for dolls and costumes I recommend consulting my book.

Article and Pattern © Susan Kramer

pattern for dress for 18 inch doll Susan Kramer

The grid on the pattern is 1 square equals 1 inch (2.5cm). The pattern pieces include one quarter inch seam allowance.

Men’s Clothing – Indians of Northern Woodlands about 1850

I thought you'd enjoy seeing this display that I photographed at the Field Museum in Chicago. See additional blog entries for more photos of clothing.

Article and photograph copyright Susan Kramer

Men's Clothing - Indians of the Northern Woodlands from about 1850; photo credit Susan Kramer

Women’s Clothing – Indians of the Chicago Region about 1850

I thought you'd enjoy seeing this display that I photographed at the Field Museum in Chicago. See additional blog entries for more photos of clothing.

Article and photograph copyright Susan Kramer

Women's Clothing - Indians of the Chicago Region from about 1850; photo credit Susan Kramer

Seminole Indian Wooden Doll and Clothing

Seminoles lived in the Southern Woodlands of the United States. This is a photo of a Seminole wooden doll in the upper left, a belt across the top and other ornaments from about 1850. I photographed this display at the Field Museum in Chicago.

Seminole doll from about 1850; photo credit Susan Kramer

Seminole dolls were carved from one piece of wood, and female dolls have a ball-shaped head of cloth or palmetto fiber; she appears to be about 12 inches (30cm) tall.

Notice the doll is dressed with 2 strips of materials, each sewn of narrow strips of cloth.

Below in the larger display is a Seminole man’s costume.

 clothing and art – Indians of the Southern Woodlands, Seminoles man’s costume from about 1850; photo credit Susan Kramer

How to Sew Cloth Dolls and Costumes - Book by Susan Kramer

Article and Photographs © Susan Kramer

Raggedy Ann and Andy Doll Pattern Sources

Here are three pattern sources for Raggedy Ann and Raggedy Andy bodies and clothing, and a toddler costume that are available on the internet. I've included a description of the contents of each pattern envelope.

1. Simplicity 3945 - One-size Raggedy Ann and Andy Pattern with Four Seasonal Clothes Outfits
These are patterns with instructions to make the 15 inch Raggedy Ann and Raggedy Andy dolls, and four seasonal outfits for Spring, Summer, Autumn and Winter. This is like getting several patterns in one with the different sets of clothes included. It is good to remember these are patterns for the one 15 inch size. The look of these dolls is the traditional look we've been used to seeing for so many years.
Simplicity 3945 - One-size Raggedy Ann and Andy Pattern with Four Seasonal Clothes Outfits

2. Simplicity 9447 - Raggedy Ann and Andy Doll and Clothing Pattern
This is a wonderful pattern. It contains both Raggedy Ann and Raggedy Andy in 15 inch, 26 inch and 36 inch sizes. Being a traditional Simplicity Brand Pattern, a very complete list of materials needed is provided on the back of the pattern envelope. Inside the envelope are instructions and tissue pattern pieces to make all the views on the pattern envelope.
Simplicity 9447 - Raggedy Ann and Andy Doll and Clothing Pattern.

3. Simplicity 9375AA - Raggedy Ann and Andy Costume Patterns for Toddlers
Now, this is not a doll costume, but perhaps your youngster would like to dress up like Raggedy Ann or Raggedy Andy. Here is a pattern in toddler sizes to sew. In keeping with all Simplicity Brand Patterns a very complete material list is included. And inside good instructions to sew, along with all the tissue pattern pieces. What fun for the kids to wear! When my kids were little they liked to dress up in costumes and present shows in the living room for us to view all year long. I kept all the Halloween costumes and dancer costumes, dog costumes (for people dressed as dogs) together in a box under one of the kid's bed. In wintertime, especially, dressing up and putting on plays was a fun activity.
Simplicity 9375AA - Raggedy Ann and Andy Costume Patterns for Toddlers.

16.5 inch Raggedy Ann

How to Sew Cloth Dolls and Costumes - Book by Susan Kramer

Care and Cleaning of Doll Shoes

No outfit for your dolls looks complete without doll shoes, except perhaps for a bathing suit, and even then a pair of sandals completes the picture.

To keep your dolls' shoes looking their best after lots of hard play and walking through everything can be a challenge, but thankfully there are solutions.

Doll shoes are made of many fabrics today and if you have an older pair of doll shoes or even an antique pair, they will require very careful cleaning so they are not damaged. The method will depend on the materials in the shoe. The uppers, the tops of the shoes, may be a different material than the inner and outer soles.

Very old dolls may have shoes with cardboard soles and these must only be dusted - no liquids applied. Cleaning products would disintegrate the cardboard even if the product does not contain water.

To get into the inner crevices of cardboard inner soles I recommend short bursts of air from the kind of bulb syringe that is used to clean computer keyboards. You could even use the air only attachment on your hairdryer.

For vinyl shoes, using a wrung out washcloth and dabbing on a little clear dish detergent or shampoo is a good cleaner. Make small circular motions and blot off the residue with an almost dry washcloth. Be very careful not to get the insoles or outer soles wet if they are a different material.

For leather shoes, saddle soap is the tried and true cleaner. It is usually available in stores where shoe polish is sold. To use, apply carefully with a damp washcloth or old piece of soft cotton. An old tee shirt is practical - just cut it up into squares and then you'll have several washcloths for cleaning your dolls and their shoes.

When the saddle soap dries, buff dry with another of the clean and dry cloths. Be careful to clean the space between the uppers and soles. A toothpick covered with a layer of cotton cloth and run in the seam should clean that hard to get to area.

The doll shoes in the photo are on my Kathe Kruze. Next to her is Floppy, our doll mascot.

Baby Doll Shoes on Kathe Kruze

I think the hardest doll shoes to clean are canvas fabric shoes. If they are white try using a very soft old toothbrush dipped in water and a drop of clear shampoo, or clear dish detergent, and gently use scrubbing circular motions. If the cotton canvas is colored, first try using just plain water on the soft toothbrush.

Remove the residue the same way using just clean water on the old toothbrush, repeating till clean. Blot as dry as possible with a terry wash cloth.

After any cleaning application with doll shoes, allow them to sit upside down on a terry towel to thoroughly air dry!

If you need help with sewing techniques for doll costumes I recommend consulting my book.

Article and photograph copyright Susan Kramer

Monday, September 22, 2008

INTRODUCTION

Hi dear readers - this is my first entry for the Sew Dolls and Costumes blog.

I'll be posting tutorials for making and dressing cloth dolls and all the popular dolls out today including Raggedy Ann and Andy, American Girls, Gotz (Goetz), Magic Attic, Sasha, Pleasant Day, Baby dolls galore and more ... check back often for updates.

my dolls resting between photo sessions; photo credit Susan Kramer

Also, check out the entries on costumes for kids and adults and the historical clothing and costumes.

If you need help with sewing techniques for dolls and costumes I recommend consulting my book.

The * starred titles are doll measurements - the basis for doll costuming!

Take care,
Susan Kramer